MTB Grips

MTB grips have to do a lot more than classic bike grips: they absorb impacts, stay reliable in wet and sweaty conditions and prevent the grip from twisting under heavy braking. City or trekking grips are designed for a calm, upright riding position, on a mountain bike they would simply be out of their depth. On rough trails, in steep descents and in changing conditions, the grip is what decides how long you can ride in control and without fatigue.

What your grips have to deal with on the Trail

• vibrations and micro-impacts from roots, rocks and brake bumps

• long descents with constant heavy braking (hello, arm pump)

• changing conditions, sometimes gloves, sometimes wet fingers, sometimes cold

• localised pressure peaks in the carpal tunnel area

Arm pump describes the over-acidification and hardening of the forearm muscles that builds up on long MTB descents through constant braking and gripping. The muscles get tight, the fingers feel numb, braking becomes sluggish. Ergonomic MTB grips significantly reduce the clamping force you need, because the palm rests on a larger surface and less force has to be transferred through the fingers. That takes the load off tendons, muscles and nerves and especially in enduro and downhill riding, you'll notice the difference by the second or third run. You can read more about numb hands while cycling in our guide.

Which Grip Size Fits My Hand?

The right MTB grip size is determined by your hand width, the distance between the knuckles of your index finger and little finger. We offers a home measuring kit that lets you dial in your saddle and grips in one go. As a rough guide: up to about 80 mm hand width, size S; 80–90 mm, size M; from 90 mm, size L. For the most accurate result, though, it's best to have your hand measured properly to make sure you buy the right grips for your mountain bike.